Tasmania - A Road Trip Around Australia's Largest Island

It was a surreal moment sitting outside Brisbane airport in the early hours of the morning. It didn't feel like it was actually time to leave what had become our home, but there was a small part of us excited to visit somewhere we'd dreamed about; Tasmania. We were heading to the capital city of Hobart which was a massive four hour flight away from Brisbane. After a nap on the plane we stepped into the cleanest air in the world which was a big change from the smoggy humidity of Queensland. We admired the adorable Tassie Devil statues in baggage collection and went to pick up our home for the next eight days. We had rented an amazing pop top van from Tas Camper, a small local company just outside Hobart airport with a very friendly owner and even friendlier dog. At first we drove around the city a little aimlessly, but we eventually decided to head up the magnificent Mount Wellington which towered above us. The winding roads were no problem for our speedy camper and we were even lucky enough to spot an Echidna snuffling in the forest as we climbed up. We arrived at the top and soaked in the spectacular view which travelled for miles thanks to a very clear day. It would have been easy to sit here all day but there was another another spot to visit in Hobart, the legendary Museum of Old and New Art. Opening in 2011 it is a fantastic arrangement of weird and wonderful displays that work to unsettle and draw questions. It was certainly an experience watching a room full of lights emulate our heartbeats, wandering through a dark spiral that replicated the human ear and staring at a machine that literally makes poo. MONA is a stunning piece of architecture built into the cliffs that certainly isn't your usual stuffy Museum and you'll leave with a new sense of wonder. A nearby lakeside campsite was calling us so we took ourselves there and were asleep before our heads even touched the pillows. 

The next day welcomed the first hike of many in Tasmania and we were beginning with the Tasman Peninsular. There are many options for cliff side rambling here and although we were very keen on hiking Cape Raoul, we didn't have enough time so we went on a friend's recommendation to Cape Huay. It was a stunning walk that curved through the cliffs with a lot of ascents and descents that left us breathless in the hot sun. It was a crisp, clear day which added an extra beauty to our photos of the bright blue ocean and pure white sand, but definitely left us with some burns. On our walk we were very lucky to see Wallabies, Skinks and even a White Lipped Snake, one of three venomous snakes in Tassie. At the end of the track we were rewarded with views of amazing stone pillars that protruded out of the ocean. They looked pretty perilous, but we know that it is a popular climbing spot which looks like a lot of fun. We finished the 12km loop and headed over to a natural phenomenon called the Tessellated Pavements, a strange rock formation on the coast. The sea had formed a flat surface covered in rectangular divisions that look anything from natural. The sun was setting so it was time for us to drive to a free camp where we were lucky to snag a spot with the most perfect sea view.

We were continuing up the coast to Freycinet National Park which we finally learnt to properly pronounce the night before our arrival. There are lots of different options for hikes in this area so we started the day feeling a little overwhelmed, but our choice was about to be made for us. We were unable to summit Mount Amos due to fire warnings therefore we had to adapt our plans and decided to start the Hazards Loop that would take us around the coast.  This trek began at the infamous Wineglass Bay with its iconic bright blue ocean set against the rich green forest. It was an easy amble down to the white sand which was a very inviting place to stop on such a sunny day, but we continued as we still had a way to go on this 11km route. We wandered through the forest revelling in the tranquillity as we climbed up through the changing landscape to steep dunes which gifted us a stunning view across Hazards Beach. It was whilst we were soaking up this amazing sight that we were lucky to see another little White Lipped Snake as it slithered away between our feet. After a quick dip in the ocean and a bite to eat, we carried on along the cliff section of the walk which was full of eagles soaring above the waves. The track finishes back at Wineglass Bay where we were welcomed by some Wallabies with the fluffiest little paws. We settled down in our camper, tending to our burnt shoulders, and drove over to Binalong Bay where we managed to settle into another free camp spot by the sea.

Our aim was to head over to Cradle Mountain National Park as soon as possible, but we had enough time to take a look at the Bay of Fires first. The bright orange lichen was a beautiful sight but there really isn't much to do other than clamber over some big boulders. We did get to see some very mischievous pigs that were digging up everyone's front gardens and generally being cheeky. Interestingly it is called the Bay of Fires after the Indigenous People who, before the invasion of white people, lived there and practiced managed burning in these areas which could be seen from the ships. I guess you must gain a real understanding of the environment when you've lived there for tens of thousands of years, perhaps it is time to give control of the land back to Indigenous People! The sun was shining so we took the opportunity to stop at one of the most beautiful beaches we've ever seen, and luckily for us it was completely deserted. It was a beautiful 30C day although the icy blue sea was as cold as you'd expect Antarctic currents to be. We tore ourselves away from snoozing in the sun and set our sights west. The views along the way were spectacular with gorgeous mountain climbs in pristine forest. Our camper just about coped with the very steep, winding paths until we finally arrived in Cradle Mountain National Park. There was just enough time to get our shuttle bus tickets and head over to Ronnie Creek, a spot we knew was good to see Wombats in the late afternoon. We excitedly jumped off the bus and hurried along the path with our eyes peeled for our fluffy friends. Ronnie Creek is a section of hills covered in marshland type ground which is perfect for making burrows and tunnels. We very quickly spotted some Wombats bumbling along in the distance, having a snooze in the sun and rummaging around in the creek channels. It was as we turned around to go back to the bus that we were surprised to see a fluffy shape munching away on grass right next to the path. It was amazing to be just inches away from this beautiful creature that didn't seem even slightly bothered that we were there. Tasmanian Wombats are smaller than those on the mainland and a good way to track them down is looking for their distinctive square poo. We made our way back, cursing that we didn't book the nearest campsite but ended up finding our own spot on a secluded path with some Pademelon neighbours.

We woke up to a beautiful blue sky, a rare sight in this part of Tassie, and prepared ourselves to take on a challenge. There are many walks you can complete in the park from short ambles to multi-day treks, but we chose to summit Cradle Mountain as it was the most demanding task that we could complete in a day. The first shuttle bus leaves at 8am and although we would have liked to start earlier than this, there is no other way of entering the park. The roads are tight and winding with only enough room for one bus so we can see why they made this change. Our hike started at Dove Lake where we got our first proper glimpse of Cradle Mountain towering above us. There were many stops for photos as we admired the perfect reflection of the mountain in the lake, not believing our luck at such a hot, clear day. We scaled the Marion Link Track, a steep ascent which allowed us to warm up and get to the summit as quick as possible during the good weather. The landscape changed so quickly from thick forests and boulders, to alpine heath and delicate creeks as we continued on our way. 

Gazing up at the climb that stood before us we realised we had a long way to go. The initial climb was relatively easy going but as the incline continued to increase, we went from stepping around boulders to pulling ourselves over them. This continued until we reached what we thought was the top when in fact it was the false peak. We looked over the ridge to see that we had to scramble down into the centre of the craggy landscape and climb back up again. This section was difficult with some scary moments, but also fantastic views and even a glimpse of snow in a section of the mountain. We dragged ourselves up the rocks and over boulders until we finally got to the top, being the first people to summit that day. After a quick call to a sleepy Bec and Byron, we started the descent just as the weather turned meaning it was slow progress as we got buffeted by the wind. After some very large boulder scrambles and a helping hand from Josh, we made it back down just as the clouds surrounded us. We continued on our route to Ronnie Creek around the edge of beautiful Crater Lake surrounded by some more stunning alpine wild flowers. It was a wonderful feeling when we got to the bus stop knowing we had completed our 20km hike in just under 6.5 hours, especially considering we stopped to take about a million photos on the way. We definitely slept well that night at our lakeside camping spot in Tullah, with a luxurious hot shower!

It was a very wise decision to include a rest day as our legs ached after the big climb the day before. Our time in Tasmania was coming to an end so we had a scenic drive south towards Mount Field National Park. The weather was changing and the rain and fog crept in as we drove along the winding roads flanked by alpine forest. We were told that despite being 30C on our visit to Cradle Mountain, snow was forecast in the park only 48 hours later which shows just how wild this place is. Our drive also included a few opportunities to hike through the forest to visit some beautiful waterfalls and lookouts. One thing that continued to fascinate us was how quickly the terrain changes in Tasmania. This place really has it all including distinctive ecosystems, tropical pristine beaches and mountainous vegetation covered in snow for most of the year. This day gave us the chance to appreciate how perfect it is as a holiday destination as it has something to offer just about anyone.  Another aspect that we didn't consider is that it sits 150 miles away from the mainland and has been this way for 10,000 years, meaning the wildlife and topography is so unique. This day of adoring Tassie ended with us setting up camp by the river looking out for Platypus. 

Our luck with the weather was about to turn as snow was forecast in the alpine region we had planned to hike. We drove up the steep, dirt path to the beginning of the Tarn Shelf and stepped out into the rain.  It soon became clear that this rain was in fact hail, so we only managed an hour walk around the lake before we shivered back down to a warmer climate. There were still lots of things to see so we went on a waterfall circuit hike very thankful for the sunshine to dry out our shoes. The most exciting part of this day was getting to sit very close to an Echidna in the grasslands as she snuffled around eating bugs and turfing up the ground with her weird, long nose. We decided to stay another night in this camp spot because it was close enough to Hobart for us to head to the airport the next day and this gave us one last chance at spotting a Platypus. At dusk we patiently sat at the rivers edge as every shimmering shape in the river made us think we had spotted something. It felt like we'd been staring at the water for hours, but eventually something popped up by the river bank and made its way towards us in the water. The Platypus swam straight past us as we stood on a log in the river, just as unbothered by humans as all the other animals in Tasmania, and we followed her upstream where she stopped to hunt. It was a perfect way to end our trip and we had a very cosy final night in our camper as we prepared ourselves to head back to the mainland.

We dropped off our camper and jumped on a flight to Melbourne which is a massive 700kms away from Hobart and would take us over an hour. It was our first time in Victoria and we were keen to visit some of the best spots, so we headed towards the beginning of the Great Ocean Road. This relaxing drive surprised us with the all the fantastic sights and views of the brutally wild coastline that we followed for hours. We meandered along the winding coastal roads, stopping at various points to enjoy the glorious weather and say hello to some very cheeky Cockatoos. The wildlife spotting continued as finally after two years in this country we got to see one of the most iconic Australian animals, the Koala. It was at a stop called Teddy's Lookout which is just outside of a little surfer town called Lorne that we met a very chilled out Koala perched in the tree. We were chuffed to be so close to one of these fluffy little bears, not realising we had plenty more interactions to come as we spotted lots of sleepy Koalas up in the trees at Great Otway. It was eventually time for lunch at the stunning Apollo Bay which we admired from high up at the Mariner's Lookout, even if we did nearly get blown down the hill. The infamous Twelve Apostles were not as grand as we expected but we thoroughly enjoyed watching the sun set in the wild ocean as we stood on huge jagged cliffs. The sadness started to creep in that this was our last few days in Australia but we very quickly had other things to think about as a spanner, or rock rather, was thrown into the works. It was as we crawled along an unsurfaced road that a rock smashed into our windscreen from a speeding vehicle going the opposite direction. It sent cracks and a couple of big chips across the glass of our very cheap rental car. It was a nightmare and after a stressed out night sleeping in the car and a failed attempt to repair it, we accepted that we'd have to pay to replace the screen. This was booked for Melbourne so we had a few hours to hike up Boronia Peak in the glorious sunshine trying not to let it get us down. It was out last day in Australia so we tried to keep our hopes high as we paid for the new windscreen and raced into Melbourne city for a whirlwind tour. Overall we enjoyed our visit to Melbourne as we saw some spectacular street art, ate in wonderful restaurants and got lost in quaint lanes. St. Kilda was a little disappointing, but we did get to spot the tiny blue penguins nesting in the rocks and get a obligatory photo of the Luna Park gates. We finished the day with a glass of Prosecco in the Green Man's Arms with Rachael and some dark chocolate sorbet. It was an emotional moment knowing it was time to leave Australia after all the time we spent in this amazing country. It gave us the opportunity to settle in places we'll never forget and meet people that have changed our lives for the better. Neither of us are ready to believe that we won't be heading back here soon, but for now we'll just have to be thankful for the wonderful experiences that we've had and look forward to returning again in the future.